Less famous than Modica and Ragusa, but no less beautiful. Scicli is the Baroque city of the Val di Noto that mass tourism has not yet discovered — and this is its strength. A UNESCO World Heritage site, setting for Inspector Montalbano, home to the Festa dei Giudei: Scicli is an authentic experience just 20 minutes from Modica.
It is the symbol of Scicli. The facade of Palazzo Beneventano del Bosco, dating back to the 18th century, is considered one of the pinnacles of Sicilian Baroque: grotesque mascarons, wrought-iron balconies adorned with leaves and volutes, pilasters that elegantly divide the three floors with theatrical flair. It is located in Via Francesco Mormina Penna, the heart of the city.
This is the main axis of the historic center. It's not a busy avenue: it's a quiet street lined with noble palaces, churches, and internal courtyards that seem frozen in the 18th century. Strolling along Via Mormina Penna in the morning, before the tourists arrive, is one of the most memorable experiences in the Val di Noto. Many scenes from the Inspector Montalbano TV series were filmed here.
Scicli's Town Hall building became famous throughout Italy and Europe as the Vigàta Police Headquarters in the Inspector Montalbano series. The late Baroque facade serves as the backdrop for scenes where Salvo Montalbano enters and exits his office. Fans of the series come specifically to Scicli to take photos in front of this building — and often stay to explore the city for hours.
Perched on a rocky promontory overlooking the city, the Church of San Matteo is the ultimate viewpoint in Scicli. The staircase leading to the church is steep but worth the effort: from the top, you can see the entire expanse of Baroque rooftops, churches, palaces, all the way to the plains of the Val di Noto. The church itself houses works of art from the 17th-18th centuries.
Another must-see stop, located in the heart of the historic center. The facade is a masterpiece of local limestone carved with floral motifs and angels. Inside, it holds the statue of the Madonna delle Milizie, the protagonist of Scicli's founding legend: according to tradition, she appeared on horseback during the battle against the Saracens in 1091, leading the Normans to victory.
Scicli has roots much older than the Baroque era. In the cliffs and hillsides surrounding the city, you can find rock-hewn churches dating back to the early Christian and medieval periods — a testament to continuous human settlement lasting over three thousand years. The contrada Dirillo and the slopes of the castle hide hypogea and caves inhabited until the 20th century.
The Festa dei Giudei is the most important event in Scicli and one of the most spectacular and ancient Easter rites in all of Sicily. It takes place on Holy Saturday, the eve of Easter, in the heart of the historic center.
Tradition dictates that when Christ's Resurrection is announced, the Roman soldiers guarding the tomb — the "Jews" — flee in terror. In the Scicli representation, this flight becomes a frenzied horse race through the streets of the historic center, with knights in Roman costume galloping at high speed through the festive crowd.
The knights wear historical costumes — helmets, capes, papier-mâché armor — and gallop along Via Mormina Penna and the adjacent streets in an atmosphere of controlled chaos, amidst shouts, music, and firecrackers. The spectacle lasts for hours and involves the entire city.
The Festa dei Giudei is a UNESCO intangible cultural heritage event of Sicily. It attracts visitors from all over Italy and Europe every year. If your trip to Sicily coincides with Holy Week, Scicli should be at the top of your list.
The Inspector Montalbano TV series has transformed Scicli — and the entire Val di Noto — into an international tourist destination. Millions of Italian, British, German, and Scandinavian viewers have discovered these places through their screens.
Vigàta Police Headquarters: this is the Town Hall building in Piazza Italia. It's the most recognizable and photographed location by fans of the series.
Alleys and Streets: many chase, stakeout, and dialogue scenes were filmed in Via Mormina Penna, Buonriposo alley, and the streets adjacent to the town hall.
Bars and Cafés: some cafés in the historic center appear as background locations in scenes set in Vigàta. Bar Gelateria Basile is traditionally associated with the series.
Those who want to do the complete "Montalbano tour" can start from Modica, pass through Scicli (Police Headquarters), continue towards the coast, and reach Punta Secca (Montalbano's house), then return via Donnalucata and Sampieri (Mannara). You can see it all in one day.
Scicli is one of the oldest cities in Sicily. The first traces of human settlement date back to the Bronze Age (2nd millennium BC). Its geographical location — a wide plain protected by limestone cliffs — favored continuous settlement through the centuries.
After Greek and Roman rule, Scicli was conquered by the Arabs in 827 AD and flourished as an agricultural center under Islamic control. In 1091, the Normans of Roger I of Sicily reconquered the city: the legend of the Madonna delle Milizie — the Virgin on horseback leading the Christians against the Saracens — is linked to this battle and remains the most vivid founding myth of Sciclitana culture.
The earthquake of 1693 almost completely destroyed the city, as it did the entire southeastern Sicily. The reconstruction, which took place over half a century, gave Scicli the Baroque appearance it retains today. The local limestone — the same used in Modica, Ragusa, and Noto — was worked by local and Sicilian artisans with extraordinary technical and artistic skill.
In 2002, Scicli became part of the UNESCO World Heritage site "Val di Noto — Late Baroque Towns" along with seven other municipalities. This recognition accelerated the restoration of historic palaces and brought international visibility to a city that had remained outside tourist circuits for decades.
Scicli is in the province of Ragusa, so it shares many gastronomic traditions with Modica and Ragusa. But it also has its own specialties.
Although technically a product of Modica IGP, this cold-processed chocolate is found in shops throughout the Val di Noto, including Scicli. Buying it in Scicli often costs less than in Modica, where tourist shops raise prices in the summer.
Ragusano cheese, fresh sheep ricotta, provola iblea — these are the local cheeses. In the dairies of the Sciclitana countryside, they are still produced artisanally, using milk from Modicana cows, an indigenous breed at risk of extinction.
Scicli has a culinary tradition linked to fishing — the port of Donnalucata, a few kilometers away, supplies the restaurants in the center with octopus, sardines, and sea urchins. "Sarde a beccafico" (baked sardines) and "pesce spada in agrodolce" (sweet and sour swordfish) are common dishes on summer menus. Don't miss Sicilian cannoli with fresh ricotta.
| Aspect | Scicli | Modica | Ragusa Ibla |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tourist Flow | ⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| Local Authenticity | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐ |
| Baroque Architecture | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| Montalbano Set | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐ |
| Proximity to the Sea | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐ |
| Special Gastronomy | ⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| Easy Parking | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | ⭐⭐⭐ |
Scicli is about 20 km from Modica. By car, follow the SS115 towards Ispica/Siracusa, and you'll reach it in 20-25 minutes. The route crosses the Hyblaean plain and the coast, with open views of the Ragusa countryside.
There is no frequent direct bus connection between Modica and Scicli. AST buses are rare and not practical for tourists. A car is practically indispensable. Alternatively, a taxi from Modica costs about 20-25€ each way.
Parking in Scicli: there are free parking areas along Viale Italia and near the stadium, a few minutes' walk from the historic center. In summer, the center is limited to traffic, but free parking is abundant compared to Ragusa Ibla.
08:30 — Departure from Modica
By car along the SS115. Arrive in Scicli around 9:00 AM. Park in Viale Italia (free).
09:00 — Via Francesco Mormina Penna
Stroll along the main axis of the historic center. Palazzo Beneventano, Palazzo Fava, the noble facades. At this hour, the street is almost empty — the morning light on the yellow stone is extraordinary.
09:30 — Palazzo Municipale (Montalbano's Police Headquarters)
The ultimate stop for fans of the series. Photos in front of the facade. Possible interior visit (check opening hours).
10:00 — Chiesa di Santa Maria La Nova
Visit the church with the Madonna delle Milizie. The facade and bell tower are among the most beautiful in the city.
10:30 — Ascent to San Matteo
The staircase is steep, but the panoramic view from the top is worth every step. Bring water with you in summer.
11:30 — Cave Churches (optional)
For archaeology enthusiasts, visit the hypogeum sites in the hillsides. Ask for information at the Town Hall.
13:00 — Lunch in the center
Trattoria in the historic center. Prices are generally lower than in the tourist city of Modica.
15:00 — Donnalucata or Sampieri
The coast is a 15-minute drive away. Donnalucata is the nearest fishing port, with sandy beaches. Sampieri — 10 minutes from Scicli — is the setting for Montalbano's Mannara and has one of the most beautiful beaches in the area.
18:00 — Return to Modica
How much time is needed to visit Scicli?
The historic center can be visited in 2-3 hours on foot without rushing. Adding the ascent to San Matteo and a lunch break, allow half a day (4-5 hours total). The ideal is to combine Scicli with an afternoon at the beach — Sampieri or Donnalucata are a 10-15 minute drive away.
Is Scicli suitable for families with children?
Yes, the historic center of Scicli is flatter than Modica and easily navigable with strollers along Via Mormina Penna. The climb to San Matteo is not recommended with young children. The proximity to the sea makes Scicli perfect for a mix of culture and beach in a single day.
What is the best time to visit Scicli?
April-June and September-October are the ideal months: mild climate, few crowds, low prices. Holy Week is spectacular for the Festa dei Giudei, but the city gets very crowded. July-August is the summer period with the highest influx to the nearby beaches — the historic center remains enjoyable even in summer thanks to less tourism compared to Modica.
Is there an Inspector Montalbano museum in Scicli?
There is no museum exclusively dedicated to Montalbano in Scicli. The Town Hall (Vigàta Police Headquarters) can be visited upon request. The Municipality has produced informational materials about the filming locations. For a complete experience of Montalbano's locations — including the house in Punta Secca — consult our complete itinerary of Montalbano's locations.
You love authenticity, want to escape the tourist crowds of Modica and Ragusa, are a fan of Inspector Montalbano, want to see the Festa dei Giudei, or are looking for a culture-sea combination in a single day.
Don't make the mistake of skipping Scicli. Those who visit Modica and Ragusa and overlook Scicli miss the most authentic jewel of the Baroque triptych. Add it to your itinerary: it only takes 3-4 hours and is easily reachable by car from anywhere in the Val di Noto.
Want to experience the "world of Montalbano" with an expert guide? This tour starts from Catania and visits all the iconic locations of the series — Punta Secca, Scicli, Ragusa Ibla, Sampieri — with transportation included and dedicated narration.
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